Saki The Wanderer
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🇭🇷 Split · Croatia · Telugu Travel Blog

Split Happens: a Roman emperor’s retirement home turned coastal paradise

Ancient palace lanes, Adriatic sunshine, Game of Thrones cellars, Telugu cinema nostalgia and one very serious lesson in retirement planning from Emperor Diocletian.

Have you ever loved a vacation spot so much that you decided to build a massive palace there and just… never leave? Roman Emperor Diocletian did exactly that about 1,700 years ago, and after spending time in Split, Croatia, I cannot blame the guy.

Welcome to Split — a city that feels like a living, breathing history book, but with better ice cream and much more sunshine. It works whether you are a history buff, a Game of Thrones fan, a Telugu cinema follower, or just someone who enjoys walking through ancient stone corridors beside the sea.

Split vlog: Roman palace streets, Riva, Klis Fortress, Game of Thrones connection and Telugu cinema location moments.

The living room of Split: the Riva

My journey started at the Riva, which is basically Split’s glamorous waterfront living room. Imagine a sun-drenched promenade lined with palm trees, cafés and the sparkling Adriatic Sea. It is the kind of place where sightseeing slowly turns into sitting, staring and doing absolutely nothing.

There is a very Dalmatian idea called fjaka — that sublime state of mind where you aspire to do absolutely nothing. In Telugu culture, the emotional translation is probably “హమ్మయ్య!” — that deep breath of relief when you finally sit down after a long day.

The fun part is that the ground you walk on here is man-made. Once upon a time, the sea came right up to the palace walls. Today, it is the best place to begin Split slowly.

Saki The Wanderer at the red Split sign near the Riva waterfront with palm trees and blue sky
Starting the day near the Riva — palm trees, blue sky and the big Split sign.

Dragons, emperors and… garbage?

Next, I headed into Diocletian’s Palace. Calling it a palace is actually an understatement; it feels more like a mini-city. People still live, eat, shop and work inside the ancient Roman structure, which makes Split feel less like a museum and more like history that forgot to retire.

If the underground cellars feel familiar, that is probably the Game of Thrones effect. These damp, moody halls were used as the Meereen dragon pits. Sadly, the dragons were out for lunch during my visit.

But the strangest part is the stinky history. For centuries, locals used these underground chambers almost like a giant septic tank, dropping waste from the floors above. It took decades of cleaning to turn them into the impressive heritage space visitors see today. That is not just restoration; that is a proper glow-up.

Stone arches and rough ceilings inside the underground cellars of Diocletian's Palace in Split
The underground cellars — atmospheric, rough and very Game of Thrones.
Saki The Wanderer posing with Roman soldier performers inside Diocletian's Palace in Split
Roman palace energy is everywhere — sometimes literally waiting for a photo.

The climb of my life

For the best views, you have to tackle the Bell Tower of St. Domnius Cathedral. This is not for the faint of heart, or anyone who skipped leg day. The stairs are narrow, steep and very good at making you question your life choices.

But once you reach the top, Split gives you the reward: orange-tiled roofs, the deep blue Adriatic, palace courtyards, mountains in the background and that unbeatable Croatian coastal light. It is worth every gasp for air.

A touch of luck and a Telugu twist

Outside the Golden Gate stands the huge statue of Gregory of Nin. The popular tradition is to rub his big toe for good luck. The toe has been rubbed so much that it has turned shiny gold. My advice: rub the toe, take the luck, and then use hand sanitizer. Luck is great; germs are not.

Then came my favourite Indian connection. At Republic Square, also called Prokurative, I had that “wait, I know this place!” moment. Telugu cinema fans may recognise this Venetian-style square from the song Mahanubhavudu. Seeing a little piece of Telugu movie memory in the middle of Croatia made Split feel unexpectedly familiar.

Saki The Wanderer at Republic Square in Split, a Venetian-style square linked to the Telugu movie Mahanubhavudu
Republic Square / Prokurative — the Telugu cinema connection in the middle of Split.

What I missed — and what you should try to include

  • Bačvice Beach: Go here if you want to see locals playing Picigin, a traditional shallow-water ball game and a big part of Split’s social life.
  • The Fish Market / Peškarija: Right off the Riva, this market is inside a historic building and is famous for the unusual “fresh fish, no flies” story linked to nearby sulfur springs.
Klis Fortress above Split with the large Klis sign on the hillside under a clear blue sky
Klis Fortress — the extra stop that adds even more Game of Thrones drama to a Split trip.

How I would spend one day in Split

  • Morning: Start with the Riva, then enter Diocletian’s Palace before the biggest crowds arrive.
  • Midday: Explore the cellars, Peristyle, Golden Gate and Gregory of Nin statue.
  • Afternoon: Climb the Bell Tower if your legs agree, then visit Republic Square for the Telugu cinema connection.
  • Extra time: Add Bačvice Beach, the Fish Market or a trip to Klis Fortress for more Game of Thrones energy.

Final thoughts

Split is a city where you can get lost in an alleyway and stumble upon a 2,000-year-old sphinx, a Roman courtyard, a Game of Thrones location, a shiny lucky toe or a trendy vegan burger joint. It is old, new, salty, sunny and absolutely beautiful.

Diocletian may have built his retirement home here, but honestly, Split makes a very strong case for all of us to improve our retirement planning.